resort diving

Best Cenote Diving Mexico

Chac Mool Cenote (Photo by Manta Divers Cancun Courtesy of TripAdvisor)

This is the one hundred and ninety-sixth in a series of reviews of the best diving destinations around the world. In this post, the focus is on the cenotes of Mexico. In addition to this series on diving destinations, the best worldwide liveaboard diving locations and services are reviewed in their own series. To check them out, or others in this series, click on Liveaboards/Resorts on the menu at the top and choose a title from the list.

Have you ever been scuba diving in the Mexican cenotes before? If so, I’d love to know about your experience. What dive shop or liveaboard did you use? Which dive spots are the best and what are the conditions there regarding the visibility, water temperature, wildlife attractions, etc.? Please post your response in the comments section at the bottom and we’ll all learn something we can use.

Best Cenote Diving Mexico

Background – The Yucatan Peninsula is a low-lying flat area with a limestone foundation resulting from ancient coral reefs that became exposed when sea levels were lowered during the ice ages. Massive cave systems were formed when slightly acidic rainwater caused the dissolution of the porous limestone with impressive stalactites, stalagmites, and columns remaining in the hollowed-out sections. Sea levels subsequently rose to flood the caves. Today there are virtually no surface rivers or streams on the Yucatan but there are three substantial subterranean water systems running throughout these caves. The limestone in many places has collapsed from the surface in the form of sinkholes which are known as cenotes. Today estimates range to 30,000 for the number of exposed cenotes providing access to these underground cave and water systems.

Underwater World – For the purposes of scuba diving we can consider that cenote diving is cavern diving. Only a basic certification is all that is required to participate. You are diving in a cavern when there is natural light (in the daytime) that is always visible. You will never be more than 40 meters (130 feet) horizontally and vertically combined from the surface. It is true there are opportunities for deep penetration into small passageways far from the surface, but that is only for individuals with advanced technical training to attempt. Most of the sites have got the major pathways well marked with safety lines for guidance.

Cenotes are often set in a tropical jungle setting requiring a vehicle and sometimes a nature trek to get to them. The water typically has exceptional clarity and supports at least 15 species of freshwater fish including tetras, mollies, catfish, blind cavefish, and blind crayfish, as well, along with chara, a common species of algae in cenotes. In areas near the openings, there can also be fallen trees and other plant life from land that rest inside.

Haloclines are an interesting visual phenomenon to watch out for that occurs when higher density seawater that has penetrated from coastal waters below meets the freshwater on top of it creating a swirling blurry effect.

In addition to the fantastic natural formations like stalactites, etc., there is also evidence of ancient sacrificial and burial grounds to explore. Typically there are large chambers with magical vistas that are the delight of wide-angle photographers.

Dive Lights

For your journey into the caverns and caves of the cenotes, you will need a good flashlight or two for safety and to fully explore the large chambers and nooks and crannies. Here is my review to introduce some top models:

Best Scuba Dive Lights

Cavern Diver Training

For training in cavern diving, you could consider the PADI Specialty Course – Cavern Diver available from many area dive centers. If you are looking for advanced technical overhead environment training, there are also several shops on the Riviera Maya that offer it.

Riviera Maya Caribbean Diving

For my reviews of diving in Playa Del Carmen, Tulum, Banco Chinchorro, Cancun, and Cozumel, please check out these posts:

Seasons and Conditions – Diving is possible all year in the cenotes on the Yucatan. December through April is the busiest time. Early booking is advised. From May to September light is better making for better visibility and photography conditions.

The air temperature average daily high range is 28-33°C (82-91°F).
The water temperature in the cenotes can be cooler than in the nearby Caribbean with a range of 20-26°C (68-78°F). On average the temperature is 24-25°C (75-77°F). Check with your guide for what to expect on the day and select the appropriate thermal protection.
The strongest rains come from June through October with 10-16 days of rain per month during that time frame. This is also the season when there is a possibility of hurricanes.
Currents are minimal to non-existent in the cenotes.
Visibility is excellent. Divers need to exercise caution not to stir up sand and silt to spoil it.

There are sites suitable for all levels of diver from shallow caverns to deep penetration through narrow passageways requiring advanced technical skills. From the primary locations of access in Playa del Carmen and Tulum, there are more than 75 dive shops, some associated with hotels, that offer a full range of diving coursework, equipment rental, and guiding in the cenotes. Some of the shops specialize in services provided but overall they can offer trips to the top cenotes in the region, local ocean dives, and sites along the Riviera Maya and around Cozumel.

Liveaboards

There are not any liveaboard yachts cruising the Riviera Maya, however, there are several world-class dive safaris to relatively nearby Belize, Roatan, and the Caymans. Here are links to the vessels followed by my reviews of diving and liveaboards at Caribbean destinations including these three:

Belize Aggressor IV, Belize Liveaboard Cruise – Check the Price & Details

Belize Aggressor III, Belize Liveaboard Cruise – Check the Price & Details

Roatan Aggressor, Roatan Liveaboard Cruise – Check the Price & Details

Cayman Aggressor V, Cayman Island Liveaboard Cruise – Check the Price & Details

Selected Cenotes Diving Sites

The Pit: 40 meters (130 feet), in the Dos Ojos Park, a stairway leads down to the entry, deepest known cave entrance to 120 meters (393 feet), hydrogen sulfate cloud at 27 meters (90 feet), many stalactites to 30 meters (100 feet), the summer sun beams down to 30 meters (100 feet), average water temperature is 20°C (68°F), dress appropriately, suitable for advanced levels (check out the top video)
Dos Ojos (Two Eyes): 8-10 meters (24-40 feet), two cenotes connected making one of the ten largest cave systems in the world, worth two or more dives, not completely explored with expeditions to only 61 kilometers (38 miles) of passageways, two main sections, one called Barbie with lots of light, the other called Bat Cavern which is dark with lots of bats, lots of stalactites and stalagmites, limestone caves, and sinkholes, many colors, several fish species and freshwater shrimp, average water temperature is 24°C (77°F), suitable for all levels
Angelita: 30-60 meters (100-197 feet), interesting fossils, an underwater tree, and a swim-through, interesting mirrored lighting effect from surface light reflected on the opaque zero visibility layer of hydrogen sulfate at 30 meters (100 feet) resulting from bacteria breaking down tree and plant life, average water temperature is 20°C (68°F), suitable for advanced and technical levels (check out the second video from the top)
Gran Cenote: 8-15 meters (25-50 feet), in the Sac Aktun System, lots of sunlight reveals blue-green water, white stalactites, and columns, many passageways, an average water temperature of 20°C (68°F), suitable for swimmers, snorkelers, and all levels of diver
Chac Mool Cenote: 12 meters (40 feet) maximum depth, three water entrances to the Chac Mool system, most of the dive is dark requiring a torch, no open water is overhead for much of the dive, through the main entrance is a large dome room with ambient light where divers can surface and find fossils and stalactites, water temperature 24-25°C (75-77°F), suitable for advanced and technical levels
Car Wash: 14 meters (46 feet), large open water area with many dead trees and water lilies, rock formations, stalagmites, stalactites, bright wall of light outside, with greenish water, look for freshwater turtles, fish, the possibility of a crocodile, fossils and broken pottery, water temperature 24-25°C (75-77°F, good training site for cavern specialty and side mount, suitable for all levels
Pet Cemetery: 7 meters (23 feet), animal skeletons can be found on the bottom including a camel fossil and portion of a tapir jaw, water temperature 24-25°C (75-77°F), suitable for all levels (check out the video below)
Dreamgate: 7 meters (23 feet), a narrower site with lots of stalagmites and stalactites and a dark sedimentary background, divers should employ extra caution to avoid damaging them, water temperature 24-25°C (75-77°F), suitable for all levels
Calavera (Temple of Doom): 16 meters (52 feet), several meter jump to enter and ladder to get out, cantaro or jug type of cenote with a small entrance into a large chamber, greenish visual effect in the entrance, a halocline at 12 meters (40 feet), named Calavera, which means skull, due to the sensation that you are inside a large skull looking out through eye, nose, or mouth holes, look for a small ledge with bones and pottery, water temperature 24-25°C (75-77°F), suitable for all levels
Casa Cenote (Tankah): 8 meters (25 feet), set in a mangrove forest, big open-top areas, has fresh and saltwater fish, the possibility of manatees, a sensation of diving in a tropical rain forest, look for a halocline, suitable for all levels (check out the video above)

Riviera Maya Resorts, Transportation, and Dive Shops

Air – Playa del Carmen has a small airport. There is also an international airport on Cozumel that requires you to catch a ferry in order to reach Playa del Carmen. Generally, the cheapest and most convenient airport is Cancun International Airport (CUN) which connects to 30 countries and 20 destinations within Mexico.
Bus – From the Cancun Airport, an ADO bus departs every 30 minutes to 1 hour for Playa del Carmen. Travel time is 45 minutes to one hour. The ADO service continues on to Tulum for a total time from the airport of just over 2 hours.
Rental cars are a convenient option available at the airports and in Playa del Carmen from major agencies, especially at the north end of 5th Avenue.
Hotels can often arrange airport transfers. Private companies are available for this, as well. Check with your hotel, online, and at Wikitravel.
Taxis in Playa del Carmen are unmetered but reasonably priced based on rates from zone to zone. Quinta Avenida (5th Avenue) is a pedestrian-only zone with taxis available at major intersections for travel away from there. In Tulum taxis are available and inexpensive.
Boats to Cozumel are available from at least two companies with hourly departures for a journey of 30 minutes one way.
Several levels of buses are available for regional trips. There is a scheduled public bus service to most destinations. Reasonably priced First-class ADO buses leave every hour for many major tourist destinations. Second class Mayab buses travel along the highway to Tulum, making stops along the way. Colectivo shared vans are a popular government-regulated alternative, traveling along the coast between Cancun and Tulum. Pricing is reasonable and they will drop you off along the route as needed but no door to door service is offered. Organized bus tours are also available from many companies for trips to a variety of tourist destinations.

For additional details on tourist information and transportation, please check Wikitravel-Playa del Carmen.

Lodging and Dive Shops – There are more than 60 dive shops in the Playa del Carmen area and another two dozen in Tulum that offer full services including equipment rental, dive courses, and guiding to the cenotes. Some can also make trips to more distant locations along the Riviera Maya and Cancun. There are more than 1,000 lodging options starting at $10 some of which are associated with the dive shops. The website linked below has the details and can arrange the booking for the lodging. You can easily find the location on the map provided on this site. Their rates are guaranteed to be the lowest and it is free to cancel or change dates.

Things to do in Riviera Maya (aside from scuba diving)

From a base on the major tourist areas in Playa del Carmen or Tulum on the seaside of the Riviera Maya, there are many attractions and activities whether it be nightlife, food, and shopping, the beach and water sports, beautiful natural sites, or archaeological ruins. Here are some of the options to consider:

Playa del Carmen – Sailing, Stand-Up Paddleboarding, Jet Skiing, Parasailing, Jungle Buggy Tours, Golf, Xcaret, Xplor, and Xel Natural and Adventure Parks, Frida Kahlo Museum, 3D Museum of Wonders, Local Beaches – Mamitas, Playacar, Punta Esmeralda, Beach Day Trips, Xpuha, Xcacel, Nearby Cenotes, Mayan Ruins – Tulum, Coba, Chichen Itza, Swim with turtles at Akumal Beach, Boat to Cozumel, Parque Fundadores, Rio Secreto Cave Tour, Taco Tour – El Gogon, Don Sirloin, Alux Cave Restaurant, Nightlife – Mandala, La Vaquita, Coco Bongo, Salsa Dancing at Zenzi, Quinta Avenida (5^th Avenue) Shopping and Nightlife.

Tulum – Tulum ruins, Muyil, explore the jungle, Ziggy Beach, local cuisine, paddleboarding, “the hippy vibes”, Playa Paraiso, mud bath at Laguna de Ka’an Luum, Sian Ka’an Biosphere, Coba ruins, kitesurfing, boutique shops, rent a bike, dance at Santino Bar, Happy Hour at I Scream Bar, Gelato at Origami, Tacos at Tacqueria La Eufemia, Sela Maya Eco Adventure Park, ATV off-road tours, Tulum Beach, Bar Hop Tulum’s town center, Parque Ecologico Labnaha, ceviche at El Camello, Xel-Ha Park.

This short video is a brief introduction to what awaits you on the Riviera Maya.

Photography in Playa del Carmen

With the interesting cenotes and the clear water, large chambers, fascinating rock formations, stalagmites, stalactites, pillars, fish life, artifacts, scenic beaches, forests, and Mayan ruins, there are many excellent photo opportunities. For information and reviews of dive cameras, click here:

Scuba Diving Trip Insurance

A cushion for emergencies provides peace of mind when on vacation. I recommend this diving insurance as they have worldwide coverage and provide scuba divers a quality insurance and medical assistance service.

Feedback and Comments

I hope you found this post on diving the Mexican cenotes interesting and useful. If you have any questions or ideas, please feel free to share them in the comments section. I’d love to know of any experience you have. If there is no comments section directly below, click here: >>comments<<

Scuba Diving the BVI (British Virgin Islands)

5:54 am by Joe Leave a Comment

This is the one hundred and ninety-fifth in a series of reviews of the best diving destinations around the world. In this post, the focus is on the British Virgin Islands. In addition to this series on diving destinations, the best worldwide liveaboard diving locations and services are reviewed in their own series. To check them out, or others in this series, click on Liveaboards/Resorts on the menu at the top and choose a title from the list.

Have you ever been scuba diving in the British Virgin Islands before? If so, I’d love to know about your experience. What dive shop or liveaboard did you use? Which dive spots are the best and what are the conditions there regarding the visibility, current, water temperature, sealife attractions, etc.? Please post your response in the comments section at the bottom and we’ll all learn something we can use.

Scuba Diving the BVI

Background – The British Virgin Islands (or the BVI) are situated east of Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands and northwest of Anguilla, with the Caribbean Sea to the west and the Atlantic Ocean to the east. It consists of 5 main islands and more than 50 islets and cays (16 of which are inhabited) the largest being Tortola at 12 miles (20 kilometers) in length and 3 miles (5 kilometers) in width. Except for Anegada Island to the far northeast of the territory which has a coral/limestone foundation, the BVIs are of volcanic origin.

First seen by Columbus in 1493, a succession of Europeans occupied the area including English, Dutch, French, Spanish, and Danish. By the time of the first settlement by the Dutch in 1648, the Arawaks and Caribs who predated them were long gone. After an interesting progression of pirates, sugar cane plantations, and slavery, the islands have evolved into a British Overseas Territory becoming autonomous in 1967.

Today the population of 32,000, 25,000 of which live on Tortola, have an economy driven by financial services and tourism. Visitors love the warm climate and water with many coming for fishing and boating. Since 1972 the Spring Regatta highlighted by seven days of sailing competition is a hallmark event. 50% of the workers are immigrants with only 37% of residents born in the country. 84% have African ancestry. English is the national language with many speaking a local dialect and lots of immigrants speaking Spanish as a first language. Driving is on the left and the US$ is the local currency.

For more historical, cultural, geographic, and demographic information, please check Wikipedia-British Virgin Islands.

Undersea World – The 70 or more dive sites display a variety of subsea terrain and conditions over the many islands. There are gentle sloping reefs and sandy bottoms around Dead Chest, Scrub, and Pelican Islands, pinnacles at Blonde Island and the Visibles sites, and canyons and swim-throughs near the Dog Islands, as examples of the diversity. Sites have rich hard and soft corals, cup corals, large gorgonians and sea fans, tube sponges, and huge barrel sponges. There is a beautiful array of Caribbean reef tropicals with seahorses and heaps of spiny lobsters. In the sandy areas, look for garden eels and big southern stingrays. A shark sanctuary created in 2014 is nurturing an ever greater presence of nurse and Caribbean reef sharks to go with turtles, groupers, schools of yellowtail snappers, barracuda, amberjacks, cobia, and tarpon. Dolphins are a year-round possibility with whales frequently sighted in January through May. Also, there are several world-class wrecks including the RMS Rhone, a Royal Mail Steamship, that sank in a hurricane in 1867 and is broken in two with many artifacts in place and penetration possibilities. Another outstanding wreck is the Chikuzen in a more isolated area with strong currents possible and a remarkable volume of wildlife using the wreck as an oasis.

Seasons and Conditions – Diving is great all year in the BVI.

Average daily high temperatures reach 87°F (31°C) in July and August and slip to 79°F (26°C) in January.
Water temperature also stays pretty warm ranging from lows of 79°F (26°C) from January through April to highs of 84°F (29°C) in September and October.
Rains come throughout the year with higher levels from September through January. June through October is the hurricane season, which occasionally disrupts things.
Visibility is excellent at 60-100 feet (18-30 meters).
Currents are generally mild but there are some sites where it can get strong on occasion.
There are sites and conditions suitable for all skill levels. A dozen or more dive shops are in operation that offer a range of coursework, equipment rental, guiding and boat cruises.

There is one excellent liveaboard cruising the British Virgin Islands year-round. Here is a review and links:

Best British Virgin Island Diving Liveaboard

Cuan Law - British Virgin Islands Liveaboard Dive Boat

Cuan Law, BVI Liveaboard Diving – Check the Price & Details

Nearby Caribbean Liveaboards

There is another excellent liveaboard yacht that cruises nearby Saba and St. Kitts and others to sites around the Caribbean including the Bahamas, Caymans, Turks & Caicos, Cuba, and the Dominican Republic. Here are my reviews and links to the Saba and St. Kitts yacht:

MV Caribbean Explorer II, St Kitts & Saba Liveaboard Diving – Check the Price & Details

For reviews of diving in other Caribbean and eastern Florida locations, please check out these posts:

Selected British Virgin Islands Dive Sites

Alice in Wonderland (Ginger Island): 40-100 feet (12-30 meters), coral garden with huge coral heads, pillar and star corals, colorful sea fans and gorgonians, lots of reef tropicals including several species of butterflyfish, big groupers and jewfish, pompano, oceanic triggerfish, Atlantic spadefish, stingrays, eagle rays, and reef sharks, surge and surface chop are common, suitable for all levels (check out the video at the top)

RMS Rhone Wreck (Salt Island): 20-80 feet (6-24 meters), 310-foot (94-meter) Royal Mail Steamer sunk in a hurricane in 1867, designated a Marine National Park, appeared in the movie, The Deep, starring Nick Nolte and Jacqueline Bisset, broken into two pieces, many artifacts in place including rigging, engine, propeller, and decking, some penetration is possible, richly encrusted in corals and sponges, provides habitat for angelfish, yellowtail snappers, stingrays, barracuda, and turtles, suitable for all levels (check out the video below)

Chikuzen Wreck (Virgin Gorda): 85 feet (26 meters), 12 miles (19 kilometers) northeast of Virgin Gorda, 246-foot (75-meter) Korean refrigerator ship that sank in the early 1980s, isolated and surrounded by sand, strong currents possible, great spot for diverse marine life to hunker down including massive schools of horse-eye jacks, barracuda, snappers, and pompano, Atlantic spadefish, stingrays, eagle rays, a huge resident jewfish, nurse sharks, and blacktip reef sharks, suitable for experienced levels (check out the video above)

Blond Rock (Between Dead Chest and Salt Islands): 20-60 feet (6-18 meters), pinnacle with yellow fire coral on top, many overhangs and ledges and a variety of corals with lobsters, crabs, and conchs in the nooks and crannies, look for schools of French grunts and horse-eye jacks, barracuda, filefish, cobia, and occasional rays and sharks, current and surface chop are possible, suitable for all levels

The Visibles (George Dog Island): 15-65 feet (5-20 meters), offshore pinnacles, big sea fans and gorgonians, abundant marine life includes angelfish, snappers, cherub fish, spotted drums, tarpon, barracuda, eagle rays, nurse and Caribbean reef sharks, surge and current can be strong on occasion, suitable for all levels

Wreck Alley (Cooper Island): 50-90 feet (15-27 meters), 4 wrecked tugboats arranged in a row on a sandy bottom next to a small wall, look for garden eels, conchs, and big southern stingrays in the sand, large angelfish and other tropicals hang out on the wrecks, suitable for experienced levels

The Chimney (Dog Island): 30-40 feet (9-12 meters), high walled canyons and a big arch with yellow cup corals inside, a number of big coral bommies on a sand and coral rubble bottom, interesting navigation in and around the formations with rich corals, sponges, and gorgonians, one section has two big boulders with an opening between them which is “The Chimney”, suitable for all levels

Santa Monica Rock (Norman Island): 20-100 feet (6-30 meters), several pinnacles, fire corals on top, look for moray eels, small fish, and crustaceans in the nooks and crannies, other highlights are turtles, Atlantic spadefish, horse-eye jacks, barracuda, kingfish, eagle rays, and Caribbean reef sharks, current and large swells are possible, suitable for experienced levels

Thumb Rock (Cooper Island): 40-70 feet (12-21 meters), a thumb-shaped rock formation with a variety of marine life possible in the area including many species of reef tropicals, French and queen angelfish, tarpons, and seahorses, suitable for all levels

British Virgin Islands Hotels, Transportation, and Dive Shops

Air – Beef Island Airport on Tortola cannot accommodate large aircraft, so travelers will need to land first in St. Thomas, San Juan, Antigua, or St. Martin. From St. Thomas you can catch a ferry to the BVI. From the other locations, several carriers are using small aircraft that can complete the journey.
Cruise ships stop at Road Harbour on Tortola.
St. Thomas – Tortola ferries operated by a large number of companies run all day until 5 pm. The trip normally takes about 50 minutes one way and provides some beautiful scenery to enjoy along the way.
Motorboats and sailboats are available to rent or charter with a crew at the major harbors. Sailing to most of the destinations within the many islands can be reached within a couple of hours.
Taxis have fixed pricing and can be expensive but give you a chance to get a good look around.
Car rental is possible from agencies at the airport and a couple of spots around Tortola. You can also find rentals on some of the other larger islands. On the smaller islands walking will handle it on the available narrow paths.

For further details on transportation and subjects of interest to a tourist, please check Wikitravel-British Virgin Islands

Dive Shops – There are more than ten dive shops in the BVI offering full services including equipment rental, dive courses, guiding, and boat dive cruises. The largest number is located on Tortola with others on Gorda, Jost Van Dyke, Norman Island, and Cooper Island.
Lodging – The website linked below has the details and can arrange the reservations for accommodations. You can easily find the location on the map provided on that site. Their rates are guaranteed to be the lowest and it is free to cancel or change dates. British Virgin Islands Hotels

Things to do in the British Virgin Islands (aside from scuba diving)

The British Virgin Islands offer quiet places to relax and many options for outdoor adventure, as well as shopping, restaurants, and nightlife. Here are a few places and activities to consider:

Sailing, Baths, Spa Treatment, Local Seafood (Lobster, Conch), Island Hopping, Cycling, Horseback Riding, Kayaking, Kite Surfing, Zipling, Anegada (1-hour boat ride), Street Food, Craft Beer (Cooper Island), Willy T Floating Bar, Cane Garden Bay, Smugglers Cove (Tortola), Brewers Bay, White Bay (Jost Van Dyke), Sunny Caribbee Spice Shop & Art Gallery (Road Town), The Bubbly Pool, Devil’s Bay National Park, North Sound (Virgin Gorda), Soper’s Hole (Tortola). Road Town, Sandy Cay, Norman Island, Peter Island, Pirates Bight (Norman Island), Flamingo Pond (Anegada), Paradise Club (Tortola), North Shore Shell Museum (Garden Bay), Gorda Peak National Park, Virgin Gorda Easter Festival, Apple Bay Surfing, Callwood Rum Distillery, The Dogs (Marine & Bird Sanctuary), 170 Lower Estate Sugar Works Museum, Nigel’s Boom Boom Beach Bar, Spring Regatta (sailing races).

Photography in the British Virgin Islands

With the colorful corals and encrusting life, gorgonians, macro critters, schools of fish, southern stingrays, eagle rays, reef sharks, turtles, shipwrecks, and fascinating scenes on land, as well, there are many excellent photo opportunities. For information and reviews of dive cameras, click here: